30 days Road Trip Reporter : Blog 6 - Gifu -
World’s Coolest Commute Around Japan: My 30-day solo trip as Fairfield by Marriott’s Road Trip Reporter (Part 6 of 7)
Discovering Gifu Prefecture: Where Tradition Meets Nature’s Masterpieces
Gifu Prefecture, tucked into Japan’s mountainous heartland, is a region of unparalleled beauty and cultural significance. Known for its pristine rivers, traditional washi paper craftsmanship, and well-preserved Edo-period towns, Gifu is a journey through time and nature.
Over four unforgettable days, I made Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino my home base, exploring the vibrant history, stunning landscapes, and culinary wonders of Mino City and its surrounding areas.
Nestled by the Nagara River, Mino City is a gateway to Gifu’s cultural treasures. Its historic Udatsu no Agaru District, lined with Edo-period merchant houses, features distinctive raised fireproof walls symbolizing the wealth of its former residents. The city is also renowned for Mino washi paper, recently designated UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, which is used to create exquisite lanterns and umbrellas. Wandering through its streets feels like stepping into a living museum, where every building tells a story of prosperity, craftsmanship, and community.
Day 1: A Warm Welcome in Mino
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino
After driving almost 3 hours from Odai, Mie Prefecture, it was so nice to take rest at my next destination - Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino, perfectly situated next to a serene river with views of the iconic Minohashi Bridge. The community dining area, with its expansive floor-to-ceiling windows, offered an uninterrupted view of the river—a scene that, in spring, transforms into a breathtaking spectacle of cherry blossoms. As always, the staff welcomed me with warm smiles and thoughtful regional recommendations.
Following their suggestion, I ventured to Seki, a historic town just over 10 kilometers away, famed for its centuries-old blade smithing tradition and the hub for crafting samurai swords. For dinner, I went to Yamanami, a cozy izakaya serving local delicacies. The black karaage was perfectly crisp, the ayu rice bowls offered a sweet, delicate flavor, and the walnut hot pot with local Hida beef was rich and comforting. The playful, hand-drawn illustrations on the menu added a whimsical charm.
Day 2: Seasons of Reflection – Gifu’s Timeless Beauty
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino
The day started with a beautifully crafted origami-style breakfast box from the hotel, thoughtfully packed with onigiri, pickled vegetables, and delicate sweets. Given Mino’s fame for its washi paper, the intricate design of the box felt like a tribute to the region’s rich craftsmanship—a detail that added a meaningful touch to the morning. The presentation was as delightful as the flavors inside, with each bite offering a glimpse into the culinary traditions of Gifu. It was a perfect start, setting an inspired tone for the day ahead.
My day was organized to explore near Gujo, a city just 30-minutes north from Mino. My first destination was Otaki Limestone Cave, an enchanting location that looks like it came out of a Studio Ghibli movie. To reach the cave, I boarded a charming wooden train that chugged up through the forest. The cave itself was a maze of narrow, winding tunnels shrouded in darkness, leading to a hidden shrine deep within. Walking alone through the quiet, shadowy passageways was both eerie and thrilling, but a reminder of the magic that comes with traveling out into the unknown, and outside of mainstream locations.
Emerging from the cave, I found myself on the mountainside, where the forest sparkled with golden sunlight filtering through the trees. I paused for a short shinrin-yoku (forest bathing), as the path led to a grove of glowing yellow ginkgo trees, with their leaves falling like shimmering glitter in the breeze. It was a mesmerizing sight, one that brought to mind the beauty of shedding the old to make way for something new and more beautiful—a profound lesson that resonated deeply as I continued my journey.
A 18 kilometer drive away is the Kokindenju no Sato Field Museum. Opened in 1993 as an open-air museum that pays homage to the Gujo Rulers during the Middle Ages and dedicated to the Kokin Wakashu, a revered collection of ancient and modern Japanese poetry. The museum is a stunning blend of history, architecture, and nature that felt like walking through a living masterpiece.
The architecture is itself a work of art, designed to frame the surrounding autumn leaves as if they were paintings hung on the walls of a gallery. Each window and corridor are carefully positioned to showcase the fiery reds and oranges of the foliage, turning ‘regular life’ into the primary artworks. My favorite spot was Seminar House Villa Sinowaki. Here, the still pond reflected the vivid colors of the leaves, creating a scene so serene, it felt as though time had stopped. The interplay of light and shadow invited me to reflect in peace and in a place where nature and life itself became the ultimate canvas.
Next I went to Gujo Hachiman, where the town’s waterways and cobblestone streets felt like stepping back into the Edo period. The town’s intricate network of canals, fountains, and waterways still function much as they did in the 1600s, offering a glimpse into a sustainable way of life that has persisted for centuries. These waterways are not just picturesque—they remain an integral part of daily life, used for washing rice and vegetables, reflecting a remarkable harmony between tradition and practicality.
Walking through the ancient streets of Shokunin-machi and Kajiya-machi, I could almost hear the echoes of craftsmen and blacksmiths who once thrived here, their legacy etched into the character of the district. These streets, named for the trades they supported, are lined with stunning canals that run alongside well-preserved Edo-period homes, creating a breathtaking tableau of Japan’s historical heritage.
Yanagimachi’s samurai district offered yet another layer of history, with its distinct winged walls separating the homes, a design characteristic of samurai villages. The architecture here reflects the status and traditions of the samurai class, providing a window into a bygone era. Immersing myself in Gujo Hachiman, I felt the unchanged essence of a local lifestyle that has endured for generations. The town’s ability to preserve its cultural and architectural legacy, while maintaining the functionality of its waterways, made it a living testament to Japan’s enduring relationship with its past.
Lunch at Izumiya, where I tried to their famous curry udon—a dish that combined thick, chewy noodles with a rich, savory curry broth. The flavors were deep and comforting, perfect for recharging before exploring more of the town. For dessert, I stopped at Gujo no Sato Chan (郡上のさとちゃん), where I enjoyed chestnut-filled sweets, a seasonal snack.
Hidden amongst the buildings of old town are countless charming cafes. My favorites include SUPPLE COFFEE ROASTERS and Ito (糸) CAFE for great coffee while enjoying the area's nostalgic charm.
As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Gujo Hachiman Castle, a stunning yamashiro, or "mountain castle," perched high above the ancient town. Built in 1559 by Endo Morikazu during the Warring States period, the castle is surrounded by fiery red maples, their leaves painting the landscape and carpeting the ground in vibrant hues. Arriving just before closing, I had the grounds completely to myself! At sunset, the panoramic views of the golden-lit town below were breathtaking. Later, as the castle illuminated against the night sky, its glow amidst the autumn foliage felt utterly enchanting.
Dinner at Jinya Yakiniku, featuring expertly grilled Hida beef from Gifu, was close to the hotel and the perfect end to the day. The beef, tender and flavorful, was complemented by a yakiniku sauce perfected over decades by the elderly owner. Each bite reflected his dedication to preserving the art of grilling, turning a simple meal into an unforgettable culinary journey.
Day 3: Nature, Spirit. and Craft of Gifu
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino
Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki hotels often partner with local businesses to offer guests exclusive perks, such as discounts on onsens and cultural experiences. At this particular location, guests can enjoy a 500 JPY discount at the Family Mart conveniently located across the parking lot by showing their hotel key. I took advantage of this deal to grab a quick breakfast of fried chicken, onigiri, and coffee before heading out for the day.
Just a 30-minute drive from the hotel lies Monet’s Pond, a hidden gem that feels like a painting come to life. With crystal-clear turquoise water, delicate water lilies, and vibrant Japanese koi fish gliding beneath the surface, the scene beautifully mirrors Claude Monet’s iconic “Water Lilies” series. The surrounding red maples reflected on the glassy water, blending with the green hues to create a mesmerizing palette of colors. Standing at the edge of this tranquil pond felt like stepping into a piece of living art, where nature and creativity existed in perfect harmony.
Oyada Shrine, nestled in the breathtaking Kaededani Valley at the foot of Mt. Tennozan, is a haven of natural and spiritual beauty. The valley, designated as a National Natural Monument, is a masterpiece of autumn splendor, with over 3,000 Japanese yama momiji (maple trees) painting the landscape in fiery shades of crimson and gold. Founded over 2,000 years ago, the shrine’s current structure dates back to 1672, showcasing intricate carvings and vivid colors reminiscent of the grandeur of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, a hallmark of the early Edo period. Walking among the ancient trees, some standing for over a thousand years, left me in awe. I couldn’t help but wonder about the experiences these trees have witnessed through the centuries, their resilience putting my own life into perspective. Standing there, I was reminded to cherish the fleeting beauty of the moment and the enduring wisdom of nature.
Back in Mino, I had lunch at Marugo Soba in the old town. The restaurant, housed in a 140-year-old udatsu building, served handmade soba noodles with a side of light, crispy tempura. The contrast between the earthy, nutty soba and the delicate crunch of the tempura created a balanced and satisfying meal.
The afternoon was a journey back in time as I wandered through Mino’s Udatsu Old Town, a UNESCO Heritage site and a rare treasure of traditional Japanese architecture. This charming district, once a bustling merchant hub during the Edo period (1603-1868), still preserves its age-old atmosphere with rows of beautifully preserved udatsu walls. These raised walls, originally designed to prevent the spread of fires between homes, were a symbol of wealth and status, a fact reflected in their presence along the historic streets. Strolling through this preserved district felt like stepping into a living museum. The intricate gardens and stately cellars of the Kosaka Family Residence, a National Important Cultural Property, and the Former Imai Family Residence, a Municipal Cultural Property, offered a glimpse into the prosperity and craftsmanship of Mino’s past.
Adding to the charm were the artisan workshops, where craftspeople demonstrated the meticulous process of creating Mino washi, the traditional paper that made the town famous. At the Mino Washi Lantern Gallery, intricate designs showcased the history and beauty of this craft, lighting up the space with soft, ethereal glows. The old streets were alive with sensory delights—croquettes from Kiraku Butcher Shop and red bean sweets from Tomiya Confectionary brought comforting flavors, while cafes like Happa Stand, Mino-machi-ya Mam’s, and Soi-meme provided cozy spots to rest and recharge over coffee and sweet treats. Every corner of this small yet vibrant area seemed to whisper a story, offering not just sights and flavors but a deep connection to the rich heritage of the region.
Dinner at Sansui Honten, an izakaya founded in 1912, featured their signature udon nabe. The dish, served in a bubbling pot with rich broth and tender noodles, was the perfect way to end a day immersed in the history and artistry of Mino.
Day 4: A Farewell to Gifu’s Timeless Beauty and to Honshu Island
As my journey through Gifu came to an end, I found myself reflecting on not just the prefecture, but the incredible 24 days spent traversing Honshu, from the southern charm of Kyushu to the captivating landscapes of Gifu. Driving thousands of kilometers across Japan’s main island, I uncovered countless hidden treasures—places where history, art, and nature came together in perfect harmony. Gifu, with its breathtaking autumn foliage, charming ancient towns, masterful craftsmanship, and awe-inspiring natural beauty, encapsulated the essence of my journey. From the golden forests surrounding Otaki Cave to the serene waters of Monet’s Pond, the culinary delights and the enduring artistry of Mino washi paper, every corner of this prefecture offered a rich tapestry of experiences that celebrated Japan’s heritage and the simple, profound beauty of ‘life.’
Beyond the stunning sights, it was the warmth of the people and the gentle rhythm of life in these quieter corners of Japan that left the deepest impression in me. Each encounter, from heartfelt hospitality at local restaurants to the careful artistry of a washi paper artisan, felt like a lesson in cherishing the humble, profound beauty of everyday life and the connections we make in these simple yet impactful moments. This journey was not only a celebration of Japan’s rich heritage but also a deeply personal spiritual awakening. The lessons learned and experiences gained reminded me to embrace the present moment, honor the stories of the past, and find gratitude in life’s smallest wonders. Gifu—and all of Honshu—will forever hold a special place in my heart as a living tapestry of culture, tradition, and natural wonder.