30 days Road Trip Reporter : Blog 5 - Mie -
World’s Coolest Commute Around Japan: My 30-day solo trip as Fairfield by Marriott’s Road Trip Reporter (Part 5 of 7)
Exploring Coastal Mie: A Journey Along the Eastern Kii Peninsula
Mie Prefecture, along Japan’s eastern peninsula, is a region of unparalleled natural beauty, rich history, and deep spiritual significance. Known for its coastal vistas, ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage paths, and exceptional culinary heritage, this part of my journey explored the region’s most captivating coastal and mountainous landscapes with spiritual significance.
With Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama and Fairifield by Marriot Mie Okuise Odai as my base, I spent six unforgettable days exploring UNESCO World Heritage sites, sacred shrines, and stunning viewpoints, while immersing myself in the warm hospitality and regional flavors that define Mie’s charm.
Mihama is a coastal city perfectly positioned at the center of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, offering easy access to many UNESCO world heritage sights. Nestled alongside Shichiri Mihama Beach, Japan’s longest gravel beach stretching 22 kilometers, the city boasts stunning coastal views and a serene atmosphere. Its proximity to sites like Nachi Falls and Ise Jingu makes it an ideal base for exploring the region’s spiritual landmarks. Known for its regional fruits like clementines, Mihama also provides a taste of the local agriculture that thrives in this coastal paradise.
Located further north along the peninsula, Odai offers stunning coastal drives reminiscent of Vietnam's Ha Long Bay, with bays and islands dotted by oyster farms and fishing boats. This serene area, near Ise Jingu, the final destination of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, embodies the harmony between nature and tradition. Known as the "soul of Japan," Ise Jingu is a cornerstone of Japan’s spiritual and cultural heritage, while Odai’s tranquil beauty provided the perfect setting to reflect on the journey's profound experiences.
Day 1: Arrival in Mihama
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama
After a scenic drive from Nara, I arrived at Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama in the evening. By now, the Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels have become my second home. The consistent amenities and familiar design— from the flavor of the coffee to the temperature settings of the rain shower—create a comforting sense of routine. Even as I move to a new location every few days, the reliable comforts and thoughtful setup make it easy to settle in and feel at home. What sets this hotel apart from the others is the location – just off of Shichiri Beach, with windows that provide ocean views to the east side of the peninsula.
For dinner, I enjoyed homemade udon with sanma sushi and tempura at Koishi-tei. The rich dashi broth and seasonal local sanma fish were a delightful introduction to Mie’s culinary heritage.
Day 2: Land and Coastal UNESCO Heritage Wonders
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama
The day began with a breathtaking sunrise from my hotel room, where the golden light sparkled off the ocean’s surface. I had a quiet morning watching the birds fly by the hotel window as I drank my morning coffee.
My first stop was Maruyama Senmaida, a stunning terraced rice paddy nestled in a mountain valley. The steep, narrow rice paddies danced in the wind with the background of steep mountains, creating a serene and magical atmosphere. These iconic paddies are not only a marvel of agricultural engineering, but also hold spiritual significance as part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Pilgrims often pass through here, drawn by its tranquil beauty and the connection it offers to Japan’s spiritual and historical roots.
I experienced my own mini-pilgrimage with a small trek through the rice paddies and surrounding forest with moss-covered stones, ancient trees - the experience felt like stepping into a Ghibli movie.
For lunch, I drove back towards Miahama town, around 25 kilometers away and chose fresh rice boxes with hand pour coffee at Ao Shokodu(食堂あお). If you want to try fresh seafood, I also suggest to try Tekone Sushi at the Onigajo parking lot.
I drove to Onigajo, a UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring a 1-kilometer walk along dramatic coastal cliffs. The afternoon sun made the ocean glitter, stretching endlessly like a blanket of diamonds. The intricate cave formations, shaped by centuries of erosion, symbolize the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage's spiritual connection between land and sea. Eagles soared above, their shadows flickering across the rocks, adding majesty to the scene. Standing at the edge, the boundary between land and sea seemed to dissolve into an infinite horizon, leaving me humbled by its raw, untamed beauty.
Just 3 kilometers away is Shishiiwa, another sacred UNESCO World Heritage site. I parked just next to Shishiiwa at Café Tombo (喫茶とんぼ). I enjoyed a hot yuzu tea inside the nostalgic Showa-era decor, while watching waves crash rhythmically onto the beach. This peaceful moment set the tone for my walk to the shore to see this important rock formation deeply tied to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage and its spiritual journey toward Ise Jingu. The dramatic scenery—clouds shifting from white to golden to pink and purple, and birds flying in formation as they migrated home—was mesmerizing. Standing on the beach, I took in the expansive 180-degree horizon dotted with islands.
Dinner at Sushi Bun, a humble sushi house run by a kind and welcoming elderly couple. The sushi was simple, no-frills, yet incredibly fresh—a true testament to the quality of local ingredients. I was gifted mandarin oranges from the owners, which were harvested from their neighbor’s farm. As I said "Oishi!" (delicious!), the couple’s smiles and joy at my enjoyment created a moment of pure connection. I’ll always remember the warmth of their hospitality and the taste of those mandarins—a perfect embodiment of Mihama’s charm.
Day 3: Pilgrimage Paths and Natural Wonders
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama
I started the day with a breakfast box featuring local specialties that included Kumano chicken, Mehari-zushi, Matsusaka beef, and fresh clementines.
My first destination was Kumano Kodo National Park, part of the UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes and celebrated for its ancient trails, sacred shrines, and cultural significance as a spiritual journey through Japan's natural and historical heritage. To beat the crowds, I arrived early and set off on a tree-lined walk toward Nachi Falls, one of Japan’s tallest waterfalls. The powerful cascade, accompanied by a sunlit rainbow at its base, was a breathtaking sight and a deeply spiritual experience.
The hike to the temples above was captivating, with moss-covered stones and sunlight filtering through the forest, creating shimmering patterns on the ground. Although the temple near the falls was under construction, the area still offered much to explore. The surrounding wooden temples, radiated history and resilience. The swaying trees seemed almost alive, their rhythmic movements in the wind showcasing nature's vitality. Among them stood an ancient hollow tree—a sacred site where visitors could walk through its trunk, offering prayers and connecting deeply with the spirit of the forest.
For lunch, I stopped at a seaside port at Nachikatsuura, celebrated for its exceptional tuna. The pier’s special tuna bowl was incredibly fresh, each bite melting in my mouth. As I enjoyed the meal, the stunning view of the bustling port and tranquil sea just in front offered the perfect blend of culinary delight and coastal charm.
My next stop was Hotel Urashima, famous for its onsen baths nestled in caves overlooking the ocean. While soaking, you can watch clouds drift, eagles soar, and waves crash against the rocky shore, all while enjoying the salty ocean breeze. Access is via a charming turtle-shaped ferry from Katsuura Pier, or you can drive to the hotel’s parking and take a shuttle which runs every 8-12 minutes. Day passes are available for onsen visitors, offering a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in nature’s grandeur, while enjoying one of Japan’s favorite paste times - a must-visit experience.
On the way back to Mihama, I visited Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine, one of the three grand Kumano Sanzan shrines that form the spiritual heart of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Renowned for its sacred artifacts and location near the Kumano River, symbolizing purification and renewal, this shrine has been a revered gateway to spiritual awakening for centuries. I ended my visit with a light snack from Kobaido—their airy, perfectly sweet confections were the ideal treat.
For dinner, I walked to next door to Michi-no-Eki Shichirimihama to eat at Benkei Izakaya for dinner. This cozy spot offered a wide range of dishes made with local produce like kumano chicken karaage.
Day 4: Driving to Odai from Mihama
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Okuise Odai
The drive from Mihama to Odai was breathtaking, with coastal views reminiscent of Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay. The bays and islands, peppered with oyster farms and fishing boats, showcased the region’s serene beauty and unexpected charm. Doze Port and the neighboring beaches were particularly stunning, offering peaceful moments of reflection amidst the scenic coastline.
For lunch, I stopped at Kappa Club, a quaint restaurant by a serene pond. The tranquil setting and crystal-clear water added to its charm. Nearby, other great options include Ya (稻米屋), known for exceptional kaiseki meals (booking for two required), and Seko Oyster, offering all-you-can-eat oysters in various styles (advanced booking recommended).
After a beautiful morning exploring the coast from Mihama, I checked into Fairfield by Mariott Mie Okuise Odai. Checking into the Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels has become a comforting ritual. At every check-in, I plan my next few days with the friendly and knowledgeable front staff, who eagerly recommend must-visit places and local dining hidden gems. One of my favorite parts of the check-in process is collecting my stamp for the Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki stamp book, a delightful keepsake that adds a sense of accomplishment to my travels.
The staff secured a last-minute dinner booking at Amaya Naka Gawa (海女屋 なか川) in Vison, an intimate wood log house with just four tables around a central wood fire. Specializing in spiny lobster and abalone, local delicacies, the chef prepared each course with exquisite attention to detail and flavorful sauces. The dinner included sashimi, seaweed rice, coal-grilled scallops, lobster, and shellfish, showcasing the region’s exceptional seafood. This restaurant is run by a three-generation Ama proprietress and her family. Ama, or sea women, are skilled free divers who harvest seafood like seaweed, sea urchins, and abalone. This practice dates back to over 2,000 years, specifically in the Mie Prefecture. This meal perfectly embodied local culinary artistry and hospitality.
Day 5: Spiritual Sunrises and Sacred SitesStay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Okuise Odai
My day began early at 5:00 AM, picking up a to-go breakfast box and driving to Futami Okitama Shrine to catch the sunrise. This small, tranquil shrine along Mie Prefecture’s coastline is a hidden gem that embodies harmony between nature and spirituality. As the night gave way to day, the sky transformed with stunning colors, shifting from deep purple to fiery orange and soft blue. The symphony of crashing waves mixed with the sound of birds waking up to start their days, their graceful flight and synchronized migration added to the magic of the moment. The coastline, dotted with islands glowing under the morning light, felt otherworldly. I enjoyed the hotel’s breakfast box at Futaminoura Beach, where the rhythmic waves and golden hues of the sunrise created a peaceful and inspiring start to the day. The mix of seafood and meat, specialties of Mie Prefecture, was a perfect way to start the day—fresh, flavorful, and deeply connected to the region’s culinary history.
With my belly full, I drove to Asama View Point, a breathtaking destination that exceeded my expectations. The road through lush forests, with wild deer grazing nearby, added a sense of adventure and harmony with nature. At the top, panoramic views of countless islands stretched across Japan’s horizon, glowing in the golden morning light. Multiple observation areas with benches and a tripod station offered perfect spots for reflection and photos. The highlight was a quiet bench at the leftmost point, where I admired 360-degree views of the ocean and mountains in perfect harmony. On clear days, like today, Mount Fuji’s iconic silhouette completes this unforgettable scene!
The journey continued to Ise Jingu, often referred to as "the soul of Japan." This sprawling sanctuary, consisting of the Inner and Outer Shrines, embodies the pinnacle of Shinto spirituality. Walking through its ancient forested grounds, I felt a profound sense of reverence. The pristine Isuzu River, reflecting autumn’s foliage, enhanced the serenity of the experience. Many pilgrims end their Kumano Kodo journey here, paying homage at the shrine’s sacred sites, which symbolize renewal and purity. Despite the crowds, the spiritual essence of Ise Jingu remained substantial.
Just outside Ise Jingu’s Inner Shrine is Oharaimachi, a charming one-kilometer street of traditional-style buildings, shops, and restaurants. Many establishments have served Kumano Kodo pilgrims for centuries, offering regional specialties like akafuku (mochi with red bean paste), Ise Udon, and Matsusaka beef skewers or sushi. Nearby Ise Jingu is Okage Yokocho, a traditional town that recreates the Edo-to-Meiji townscape with narrow alleys, lanterns, and cozy seating. A peaceful river adds to the timeless ambiance. Tucked within Okage Yokocho is Isuzugawa Cafe, known for its serene interiors, exquisite architecture, and scenic views. Serving delicious sweets, coffee, and tea, the cafe offers both tatami and Western-style seating, providing a perfect retreat.
Lunch at Hinakaya Restaurant, a hidden gem along the Miyagawa River. It was an extraordinary experience in a serene thatched-roof folk house. The peaceful ambiance, with panoramic views of the river, vibrant autumn leaves, lush mountains, and surrounding tea plantations, created a dreamlike setting. The kaiseki feast was a gastronomic masterpiece, with each dish beautifully plated to highlight the finest seasonal ingredients from land and sea. Every bite reflected Mie Prefecture’s rich culinary culture, perfectly capturing the essence of the season, autumn. Indulging in this seasonal d amidst such natural beauty was both humbling and exquisite, leaving me deeply grateful for nature’s gifts. This must-visit gem requires advance booking to ensure you don’t miss out on this unforgettable experience.
For dinner, I visited Udon-ya Fukusuke, a historic udon restaurant in Ise. Renowned for its thick, chewy noodles and umami-rich sauce, the meal was a comforting end to a day steeped in spiritual and natural wonders.
Day 6: Farewell to Mid
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Mino with Autumn Colors
I started the morning at Momijinosato Park. The park is famous for its stunning autumn foliage, where the vibrant red and orange leaves create a striking contrast against the park's crystal-clear, green-blue waters.
Then I drove north towards Gifu, dwith a few memorable stops along the way. First was a quick visit to a parking area to try Kamdyama Ramen—a bold, rich, garlic-forward ramen made with a blend of red miso and pork & seafood broth. Even for a roadside meal, it was incredibly flavorful and satisfying. Though I hoped to visit the Shirokuma Ramen Kameyama Flagship Shop, it was unfortunately closed during my visitd
Next, I stopped at Momijidani Park, famous for its stunning autumn foliage. Although the leaves were just beginning to change color due to the season's delay, the expansive views and peaceful ambiance still made the visit worthwhile. The park offers an easy stroll through its grounds and incredible vantage points from the top, where you can admire the surrounding colors.
Mie Prefecture’s coastal landscapes, spiritual pathways, and local hospitality left an unforgettable mark on my journey. From the sacred shrines of Ise Jingu to the tranquil bays of Odai, each experience felt deeply rooted in spiritual and natural beauty. This region reminded me of Japan’s incredible diversity—where oceans meet islands, and tradition intertwines with natural beauty. Over six days, I learned to appreciate the intricate balance between preservation and evolution, where ancient traditions coexist with modern comforts. Witnessing the harmony of nature and culture taught me to seek beauty in contrasts and to cherish moments of serenity amidst life’s vibrancy.