30 days Road Trip Reporter : Blog 4 - Nara, Kyoto -
World’s Coolest Commute Around Japan: My 30-day solo trip as Fairfield by Marriott’s Road Trip Reporter (Part 4 of 7)
The Origins of Japan: Exploring Deep History and Traditions in Nara, Kyoto, and Mie Prefectures
Nara Prefecture was the center of ancient Japan’s Yamato state and played a crucial role in laying the foundation of Japanese civilization. During the Nara period, Heijo-kyo became the capital, marking the establishment of Japan’s first centralized government. Later, in the Heian period, the capital was moved to Kyoto, which then flourished as the cultural and political center of Japan. Additionally, the Iga region of Mie Prefecture, located to the west of Nara, was historically connected to both Nara and Kyoto, particularly during the Sengoku period, when it became known as a center for Iga ninja activities. The rich history and natural beauty of this region invite travelers to explore the traditions and cultural heritage that have been passed down since ancient times. This region’s scenic hikes, rice fields, orchards, and historic burial mounds have inspired countless Waka poems, but in addition are filled with deep ancient Japanese roots. This leg of my journey delved not only into Yamato's and Iga’s natural beauty and serenity, but also the traditions and history that define Japan and have persisted for centuries.
With Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels as my base, I spent four nights at two locations to discover the vast Yamato region: Fairfield by Marriott Kyoto Minamiyamashiro and Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi.
Minamiyamashiro, at the crossroads of Nara, and Mie and Shiga Prefectures, is celebrated for producing nearly half of Kyoto’s renowned Uji-cha tea, a craft preserved since the Kamakura period. Its proximity to Iga, the birthplace of the Iga-ryū ninja clan makes this city rich in heritage, making it a captivating gateway to the intersecting cultures of the three prefectures.
Tenri is home to the Yamanobe-no-Michi, Japan’s oldest recorded road, stretching 30 kilometers. This ancient route, central to Japan’s history, connects sacred shrines and burial mounds that have inspired countless Waka poems over centuries.
Day 1: Ninja Heritage and Hidden Traditions
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Kyoto Minamiyamashiro
The day began with a beautifully curated breakfast box from Fairfield by Marriott Kyoto Minamiyamashiro, filled with local meat & vegetables wrapped in a black box, fitting for the day's activities – exploring Iga in Mie Prefecture. Just a 15-minute drive away, Iga is the birthplace of the Iga-ryū ninja clan, renowned for their espionage skills and covert operations.
I explored Iga Ninja Museum, which offers an immersive experience into the ninja’s secretive world with guided tours through an unassuming ninja house that reveals hidden doors, trapdoors, and escape routes—a testament to their ingenuity.
In the same park, Iga Ueno Castle, known as the 'White Phoenix Castle,' offers sweeping views of Iga city from its chalk-white walls and showcases artifacts like samurai armor and swords. It serves as a strategic vantage point, reflecting the power of samurai lords who employed ninjas for covert missions.
In the afternoon, I headed to Kumihimo Kumisho no Sato, a workshop specializing in Kumihimo, the intricate braiding technique introduced to Japan in 1192 and historically used to decorate samurai swords and armor. Under the guidance of an elderly artisan whose family has braided Kumihimo for decades, I created my own decorative cord using traditional wooden looms and silk strings. The intricate, yet meditative process deepened my appreciation for this centuries-old craft, especially with the support from the artisan, making this hands-on experience fun and memorable.
For lunch, I visited Kyuan Japanese Noodle Shop, a renowned udon restaurant celebrated by locals for its creative take on traditional flavors. I opted for the curry broth udon topped with cheese—a delightful fusion that highlighted the restaurant’s innovation. The chewy noodles paired perfectly with the rich, flavorful broth, making it a meal to remember.
In the afternoon, I explored Wazuka in Kyoto Prefecture, a village renowned for its Japanese tea cultivation. With over 800 years of history, Wazuka’s tea farms produce approximately half of uji-cha in Japan. Tea heritage and cultivation here was passed down from generations across almost 300 family-grown farms since the Kamakura period and the city is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Japan. The rolling hills of meticulously maintained rows of tea trees, framed by autumn foliage, was a sight to behold. The windy 25-minute drive from Fairfield by Marriott Kyoto Minamiyamashiro to Wazuka reminded me that it's not just about the destination, but the journey.
There are many cafes in town to taste green tea. Dan Dan Cafe, serves matcha based tea and snacks and hot meals with a 180-degree views of the tea plantations below. d:matcha Kyoto Cafe & Kitchen provides tea experiences like tea picking and tea tasting with organic green tea souvenirs. For my last taste of green tea for the day, I went to Wazukacha Cafe which sells tea and sweets from local farmers, with many organic options.
For the last stop of the day, I visited Ninkaku Shokudo for dinner, a whimsical dining experience featuring ninja-themed decor, ninja revolving doors that I learned about earlier in the day at the Ninja Museum, and food shaped like ninja stars—a playful end to the day’s exploration of Iga’s ninja heritage.
Day 2: The Origins of Japanese Tea and Tenri’s Spiritual Roads
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi
I began the day with a quiet moment, sipping coffee in my robe while watching the fog lift from the tea plantations outside my window. Fairfield by Marriott already feels like my home away from home.
For breakfast, I walked to Michi-no-Eki Ocha no Kyoto Minamiyamashiro Village, and enjoyed green tea-infused tsukudani-filled rice balls, rice cakes, tea, and the most delightful matcha soft serve—a fitting farewell to Minamiyamashiro’s tea-rich heritage.
A 20-minute drive brought me to Nara Prefecture, along a serene route bordered by fall foliage and tea farms. My destination was a private tea experience with Junichi Uekubo, a seventh-generation tea master renowned for his hand-rolled tea. Overlooking a river framed by autumn hues, Uekubo shared his story of preserving his family’s 150 years of legacy, while serving me hand brewed tea. His family pushed him to pursue a different career, but making delicious tea was what brought him joy, so he had to continue his family’s craft to share this with the world. Within his first year of training, he hand rolled tea for over 800 hours, in which his mastery was recognized as he was awarded Japan’s best green tea in 2017. His tea is sweet and robust - a flavor I know was not only steeped with his love for the craft but also steeped in centuries-old tradition. What a special experience in which I could taste Uekubo’s heartfelt hospitality and dedication in a ceramic tea class! The tour experience includes a visit to his 150 years old tea farm, a picturesque scene like a painting.
Minamiyamashiro served as the perfect base to explore three distinct prefectures, each offering its unique charm and historical depth. With a full heart and stomach, I drove 35-minutes to Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi. This hotel stands out with its sleek black exterior and modern design that harmonizes seamlessly with the surrounding historic Michi-no-Eki Nara Prefecture Historical and Artistic Culture Complex.
Lunch was at Marukatsu, a beloved tonkatsu restaurant nestled next door to the hotel within Michi-no-Eki Nara Historical and Artistic Culture Complex. Beyond its culinary delights, the Michi-no-Eki complex offered an array of regional craft items, including ceramics and wooden goods from artisan workshops, as well as exhibits celebrating the area’s rich history.
After taking some time to enjoy the hotel’s amenities, including a rest in the expansive lobby lounge with a small snack bought from the on-site market featuring local specialties, I headed out for dinner.
Dinner was at Saika Ramen, the birthplace of Tenri-style ramen. Located in a supermarket parking lot adorned with red lanterns, the enticing aroma of garlic greeted me as I turned in. The ramen has stir-fried Chinese cabbage, chives, carrots, and pork, all topped with tender pork belly and spice. The chewy noodles and crunchy vegetables created a perfect balance, making it a warm and comforting end to a day.
Day 3: Pilgrimage Through the Heart of Yamato
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi
The day began with a delicious breakfast box prepared by Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi, showcasing seasonal ingredients from the region. The box was had autumnal ingredients like steamed gingko nuts and pickled radish and was adorned in the shape of autumn leaves and deer.
My plan for the day was to trek the Yamanobe-no-Michi, Japan’s oldest road, stretching over 30 kilometers from Sakurai to Nara. The road offers a profound connection to Japan’s spiritual and cultural roots, weaving through rice fields, orchards, and small villages, with shrines and burial mounds. This ancient trail inspired countless Waka poems, and its landscapes still echo with the timeless beauty that captivated poets. Fairfield by Marriott Nara Tenri Yamanobenomichi is conveniently located just off the hiking path. I aimed to visit three major historical sites within one day: Omiwa Shrine, Isonokami-jingu Shrine, and Chogaku-ji Temple.
From the hotel, Isonokami-jingu Shrine is just a 10-minute walk. The serene site is enveloped in dense forest, with the path leading to the shrine lined with towering trees, creating a tranquil ambiance. Known for its sacred chickens that roam freely and its historical significance, the shrine offers a glimpse into ancient Japanese spirituality.
Next, I drove to Sakurai, parked at the free Omiwa Shrine Parking Lot to begin my trek toward Tenri. Omiwa Shrine is considered one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrines, dedicated to Mount Miwa. Walking through its grounds felt like entering a realm of profound spiritual energy. The pathways, flanked by ancient cedar trees, resonated with a sense of timelessness.
For lunch, I stopped at Somen Noodle Morisho, a cozy chaya (teahouse) nestled within a traditional folk house. Their Miwa somen noodle soup, light yet flavorful, was a perfect midday meal. The history of Miwa somen, dating back over 1,200 years, was beautifully reflected in the simplicity and heartiness of the dish.
Throughout my pilgrimage along the Yamanobe-no-Michi, it felt like stepping into a living tapestry of Japan's ancient past. Each step along the trail felt like a journey in time as I encountered ancient monuments. The trail provided me with my own form of shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) as I walked across weathered shrine stones, with their rhythmic crunch of gravel underfoot as a meditative ASMR, harmonizing with the gentle rustling of leaves. Surrounded by towering cedar trees, the air carried an almost tangible sense of reverence.
I was deeply moved by the dedication of the pilgrims I encountered along the 30-kilometer trek. Regardless of age—whether a baby in a carrier or the elderly walking with measured determination—or whether traveling solo, with friends, or as a couple, each pilgrim carried a quiet reverence for the journey. As a solo female traveler, witnessing their perseverance and grace inspired me to reflect on my own strength and capability. This journey reminded me that I, too, am capable of undertaking my own pilgrimage, finding both inner resilience and connection along this spiritual path.
Each step was a journey through a landscape that seemed to hum with spiritual energy, where nature and history intertwine. The trail is not just a path but a living chronicle of Japan’s origins—a pilgrimage where the journey itself holds equal, if not greater, significance than the destination.
There are many chayas (tea shops) along the way but my favorite was Yamanobe-no-Michi Hanamori. Their Colombian pour-over coffee and light desserts provided a refreshing break and its rustic charm made it a memorable stop. The path is well marked and well maintained with restroom stops and vending machines throughout.
I returned to the hotel for dinner at Sugino, a local oden shop. The variety of oden and the warm, flavorful shabu shabu were the perfect comfort food after a long day of trekking.
Day 4: Culinary and Cultural Highlights in Nara
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Mie Kumano Kodo Mihama
Before departing, I collected the hotel’s unique stamp (goshuin), adding to my growing collection of Fairfield by Marriott memories from this 30-day journey. Guests can purchase a traditional washi booklet to collect exclusive stamps from each hotel, uniquely designed by staff to highlight the region’s charm. Along the way, participants can enjoy the journey while earning rewards such as Bonvoy points, local specialties, and stay vouchers.
As one of the oldest cities in Japan, there are many Michelin star restaurants in Nara, thus I wanted to take on a traditional culinary experience of a kaiseki meal at Musoan, located just a 45-minutes drive away from the hotel outside Nara Park. The multi-course meal showcased traditional dishes with seasonal autumn ingredients and refined flavors, offering a perfect balance of tradition and artistry. A stroll through Nara Park, home to famous bowing deer, capped the day with a touch of playfulness.
As I prepared for the long drive to my next destination, Mie Prefecture’s coast, I reflected on the profound experiences of the past few days. From the ninja heritage of Iga to the tea traditions of Minamiyamashiro and the spiritual roads of Tenri, this region weaves together the threads of Japan’s ancient history and enduring culture. Each experience—from crafting Kumihimo cords to savoring hand-rolled tea—offered a window into the meticulous artistry and long dedication that define Japan’s heritage.
Kyoto’s and Nara’s, Iga’s legacy lives on, not just in its ancient landmarks, but in the dedication of its artisans, the spirituality of its pilgrims, and the profound connections between history and nature. This journey reminded me that Japan’s origins are not just stories of the past, but enduring traditions that continue to inspire. As I prepare for the next leg of my journey, I carry with me the profound sense of time and tradition that this region so beautifully preserves.
Follow along for Part 5 as I continue to uncover the treasures along the coast of Japan in Mie Prefecture!