30 days Road Trip Reporter : Blog 2 - Okayama, Hiroshima -
World’s Coolest Commute Around Japan: My 30-day solo trip as Fairfield by Marriott’s Road Trip Reporter (Part 2 of 7)
Exploring Japan Coast-to-Coast: From Ocean to Mountains in Hiroshima and Okayama
For centuries, Japan’s landscapes have inspired travelers with their poetic contrasts, and Hiroshima and Okayama Prefectures embody this harmony beautifully. Stretching from the southern to the northern coast of Honshu, this part of my journey captures a seamless interplay of oceanfront tranquility, pastoral highlands, and dramatic mountain peaks. In both regions, there are highlands and coastline from Sera’s rolling hills to Hiruzen’s plateaus and the Seto Inland Sea to Sea of Japan. This journey highlights their harmony, revealing an often overlooked region where mountains meet the sea and land flows seamlessly into water, crafting a ‘coast-to-coast’ experience of unparalleled beauty.
With Fairfield by Marriott as my base, I spent five nights at Fairfield by Marriot Hiroshima Sera and Fairfield by Marriott Okayama Hiruzen to discover these regions from coast-to-coast.
Nestled in the hills of Hiroshima Prefecture, Sera is renowned for its seasonal flower displays that transform throughout the year, from tulips in spring to cosmos in autumn. Its proximity to Hiroshima’s coastline, with the Seto Inland Sea dotted by over 3,000 islands, adds a remarkable contrast to the region’s mountainous beauty. This blend of ocean vistas and highland charm highlights the diversity of Hiroshima’s landscapes, making Sera a unique gateway to Japan’s natural splendor. Beyond its natural beauty, Sera’s culinary heritage—rooted in local, farm-fresh ingredients—offers flavors as rich as its landscapes.
Nestled in Okayama Prefecture, Hiruzen’s plateau unfolds like a serene retreat, surrounded by the majestic Hiruzen Sanza mountains—Mount Kamihiruzen, Mount Nakahiruzen, and Mount Shimohiruzen. Its rolling fields and mist-covered peaks create a pastoral charm that feels worlds away, yet its proximity to the Sea of Japan offers a stunning juxtaposition of highland tranquility and coastal horizons. Known for its crisp mountain air and scenic cycling paths, Hiruzen provides a haven for nature lovers seeking to explore both the rugged beauty of its plateaus and the quiet allure of its nearby coastline. This unique balance of landscapes makes Hiruzen a perfect destination to experience the harmonious interplay of mountain and sea. Like Sera, Hiruzen’s agricultural traditions shine through its celebrated yakisoba, fried chicken, and dairy products, making it a destination where culinary exploration is as fulfilling as the scenic views.
Day 1: Arrival into Sera
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Hiroshima Sera
After traveling from Ukiha to Hakata by car, continuing by bullet train from Hakata Station to Fukuyama Station, and completing the journey to Sera by car, arriving at Fairfield by Marriott Hiroshima Sera felt like a much-needed escape. The hotel's warm and friendly staff greeted me with genuine smiles, making me feel instantly at home. During check-in, they thoughtfully suggested nearby dining options and helped secure a last-minute reservation, allowing me to unwind and settle in without worry.
Dinner was at Tiny’s, a charming American-style diner that celebrates the Sera region by exclusively using locally sourced ingredients. The Sera steak plate stole the spotlight—expertly prepared and bursting with flavor. It was a delicious introduction to the region’s rich agricultural heritage and food culture, leaving me eager to explore more of what Sera has to offer in the coming days.
Day 2: Sera’s Natural Beauty and Local Flavors
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Hiroshima Sera
The day began with a breakfast box from Fairfield by Marriott Hiroshima Sera, showcasing Sera’s local ingredients. The carefully curated selection of fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits, and handmade bread was a perfect start to the morning.
I made my way to Imakoyasan Ryugeji Temple, where autumn’s vivid foliage blanketed the temple grounds in shades of red, orange, and gold. This centuries-old temple, nestled amidst the hills, radiated peace and combined with the fiery colors of nature, humbled me. An elderly temple volunteer immediately welcomed me, sharing stories of the temple’s history. His warmth and hospitality transcended our language barrier, reminding me why I love to travel off-the-beaten path - despite our differences, we are all human and these small synapses of human moments are what connect us.
At the footpaths of the temple, I stopped at Fukuchiin Café, a restored traditional building that serves desserts and tea all made from locally sourced ingredients. I sat along the edge of the building next to the large windows that perfectly framed the autumn scenery outside - it felt like my own temple. I savored matcha paired with wagashi, delicate Japanese sweets.
As I left the café, the sound of taiko drumming drew me and I followed the beat back to the temple grounds. Performers dressed in vibrant costumes showcased traditional dances celebrating the autumn season. The rhythmic beats of the drums and the graceful movements of the dancers created an unforgettable cultural moment, in which I was lucky to experience. Traveling slow truly has its perks!
I had lunch just 5 minutes away at Waraya (わらや), a family-run restaurant specializing in Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. Watching the chef expertly layer cabbage, noodles, and pork on a teppan before topping it with their signature sauce was fun and interactive! The sizzling dish, served on a personal griddle, was warm, hearty, and full of flavor—a quintessential taste of Hiroshima region.
In the afternoon, I visited Sera Winery. While formal tastings weren’t available, the store offered small samples of their local wines and products. The highlight was the miniature train ride with a view of the surrounding mountains, guided by an elderly, cheerful conductor whose passion is to bring joy to his passengers.
Sera is famously known for their vast flower fields and in the winter months, Sera Kogen Farm hosts Sera Kogen Candle Night, an evening of soft, flickering light displays amongst their garden. As evening fell, I went to experience this in their rose garden, illuminated with lanterns, exuded a twinkling atmosphere.
I had dinner at Bistro Lovenir, a cozy and upscale bistro known for its creative European & Japanese fusion dishes prepared with locally sourced ingredients. To unwind, I headed to Sera Hot Spring, where the mineral-rich waters and optional massage services offered much-needed relaxation after a day of exploration.
Day 3: Onomichi’s Coastal Charm
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Hiroshima Sera
After a hearty breakfast at the neighboring Michi-no-Eki Sera, I set off for Onomichi, a port city famed for its historic temples, narrow alleys, and views of the Seto Inland Sea.
Upon arrival, I parked near Ichibankan, a renowned ramen shop where I enjoyed a bowl of Onomichi-style ramen. It's been rumored that this ramen made with a soy-based broth enriched with pork backfat was invented here. Topped with a generous serving of green onions, it was a delicious introduction to the city’s traditions.
The most famous attraction in Onomichi is not one place—but a journey to multiple—the Temple Walk. This path goes to 25 temples, weaving through narrow alleys and hillside paths showcasing Onomichi's spiritual heritage with the backdrop of the city’s stunning ocean views. I began the Temple Walk by taking the cable car up to Senkoji Temple, which offers sweeping views of the city and sea. Adjacent to the temple is the Senkoji Park Observatory, a spiral-shaped structure with panoramic vistas of the Seto Inland Sea’s shimmering waters dotted with islands.
As I walked down, I wandered through Cat Alley, a whimsical street filled with cat-themed shops and friendly felines. The nostalgic atmosphere, with its vintage storefronts and winding pathways, felt like stepping back in time to a charming village. I stopped at House of Onomichi Ihatovu-Owl, a café perched above the alley. Its eclectic decor and cozy ambiance made it an ideal spot to hang out with cats and sip coffee, while watching other Temple Walk pilgrims below. The Temple Walk can be done at your own pace. I spent 3 hours to visit the major sites while still being able to enjoy the pilgrimage.
I drove towards the other coast of Honshu to my next destination, Hiruzen. Arriving at Fairfield by Marriott Okayama Hiruzen Highland felt like the perfect end to a long day. The hotel’s familiar cozy ambiance offered a welcome retreat as I prepared to explore the diverse landscapes of the Okayama region over the next few days.
Dinner was at Suintobo, a cozy gem renowned for it’s nabe udon with spicy miso broth. It was a perfect balance of warmth and bold flavors. I also had their crispy boar dumplings, which combine a golden, crunchy exterior with a juicy, tender filling. This culinary experience beautifully captures the essence of Hiruzen's regional cuisine, and I can’t wait to discover what other delights this area has to offer in the coming days.
Day 4: Hiruzen’s Rolling Plateaus
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Okayama Hiruzen Highland
I had breakfast at Wood Pao, a café known for its Hiruzen-style yakisoba, a stir-fried noodle dish packed with miso, vegetables, and rich umami flavors. Beyond its culinary offerings, Wood Pao is also a hub for renting e-bikes, making it a convenient starting point for exploring the Hiruzen plateau. The e-bike path I took started from Wood Pao, Hiruzen Jersey Land, Hiruzen Fish Farm, Kayanebeno view point, YouYou restaurant, Fukuda Shrine, and back to Wood Pao.
Cycling through Hiruzen’s plateau surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Hiruzen Sanza mountains was a breathtaking experience. The bike-friendly paths took me past golden fields, transitioning autumn foliage, quaint villages, vast grasslands and rivers, and hills blanketed in autumn colors. I loved seeing the yellow gingko leaves painting the pathways yellow and even enjoyed a soft serve ice cream at Jersey Land. The crisp mountain air and scenic roads made the approximate 20 kilometer ride both refreshing and unforgettable, while the e-bike allowed me to cover more ground effortlessly.
Lunch was at YouYou, a restaurant famed for its award-winning yakisoba, which is infused with chicken broth for a rich, savory depth. Their fried chicken had a perfect balance of crispiness and tenderness, another must-try award winning dish.
In the evening, I visited a local onsen to relax my muscles before dining at Myoga, a family-run eatery. Their nabe udon, a comforting hotpot dish filled with fresh vegetables and chewy noodles, was hearty and satisfying—a perfect end to the day.
Day 5: The Art of Mount Daisen
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Okayama Hiruzen Highland
I started the day driving 55 kilometers west, where the journey was as captivating as the destination. The soft morning fog, rising gracefully against the backdrop of the Hiruzen Sanza mountains, created a mesmerizing scene. My plan for today was to explore the neighboring prefectures, Shimane Prefecture and Tottori Prefecture, approximately just 50 kilometers and 30 kilometers away, respectively.
My first destination was Adachi Art Museum, famed for its meticulously curated Japanese gardens and each window of the museum frames a different seasonal scene, creating the impression of living paintings. I had a quick rice paddy and beef sandwich at Kiyomatsu-an (清松庵) before going to my next destination.
I explored the Shoji Ueda Museum, a striking contemporary architectural space dedicated to the renowned photographer. The museum’s minimalist design perfectly complements Ueda’s black-and-white works which are so simple by composition but filled with raw, complex human emotion. The museum’s location offers stunning views of Mount Daisen, and the design of the building perfectly frames it, as if the mountain was it’s own piece of art. Lunch was just next door at Terrace The Daisan, featuring locally sourced dishes paired with panoramic mountain views.
With Mount Daisen as backdrop, I drove to Daisen Makiba Milk Village, a dairy farm known for its creamy soft-serve ice cream and dairy products. I savored the rich soft serve while overlooking lush pastures and the distant ocean. There are many viewpoints driving from Mount Daisen to Hiruzen, so I stopped at Kagikake Pass and Kimendai Observatory Rest stop, where the setting sun bathed the landscape in golden light as I said a heartfelt farewell to Mount Daisen, which gifted me a diverse array of art forms, from gardens to photographs, throughout the day.
Dinner was at Kogentei, a charming yakiniku restaurant run by a kind and welcoming lady. Known for its local beef options and warm hospitality, the owner’s enthusiasm and effort to communicate with me in English added a personal touch, making it a memorable way to end the day.
Day 6: Farewell taste to Hiruzen
My final morning in Hiruzen began at Ohana Bakery, which sells fresh baked pastries and offers free coffee with any purchase. I stopped briefly at the neighboring Michi-no-Eki Kaze no Ie before starting my drive.
As I drove to Hiruzen Jersey Land, I couldn’t help reminisce the feeling from yesterday’s bike ride past these stunning views of rolling hills. I indulged in a Jersey Land fondue and steak set meal, featuring local meats, fresh vegetables, and cheeses from their dairy farm before heading off to my next destination.
Driving out of the Hiruzen plateau and closing this leg of my journey, I found myself reflecting on the quiet beauty of contrasts—the way Japan’s diverse landscapes flow effortlessly from mountains to sea, from rolling hills to tranquil coastlines. Despite their geographical distance, Hiroshima and Okayama reveal a harmony that bridges their differences: the vibrant foliage of Sera’s highlands gently gives way to the serene waters of the Seto Inland Sea, while Hiruzen’s golden plateaus stretch toward misty peaks that seem to touch the ocean beyond Mount Daisen. It’s a reminder that contrasts don’t divide but rather complement, creating a rhythm of beauty that invites travelers to slow down and appreciate both the vastness and the details of their surroundings.
In the countryside of Japan, hidden gems are not just places but moments—moments of stillness, connection, and awe. Staying at Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels allowed me to immerse in this harmony with ease, offering a sense of comfort and familiarity while encouraging me to embrace the wonders of both land and sea, the journey and the destination.
If you’re ready to explore Japan beyond the big cities, continue to follow along on Part 3 of my journey for inspiration on your next adventure!