30 days Road Trip Reporter : Blog 1 - Kyushu -
World’s Coolest Commute Around Japan: My 30-day solo trip as Fairfield by Marriott’s Road Trip Reporter (Part 1 of 7)
For decades, “Michi-no-Eki", or roadside stations, have been a cornerstone of Japan’s unique road-tripping culture. These aren’t your average rest stops—they’re vibrant community hubs where locals and travelers alike gather to experience the best of the region. Each Michi-no-Eki offers a glimpse into local life, with fresh farm produce, regional delicacies, artisan crafts, and even seasonal festivals. With over 1,100 scattered across the country, these stations make road-tripping in Japan a journey in itself, where the stops are just as exciting as the destinations.
For Japanese travelers, this journey is not a road less traveled and is about slowing down and savoring the journey through their country. They create memories winding through mountain passes, coastal roads, and idyllic countryside, using the Michi-no-Eki-s as a map to guide them through Japan and experience the hospitality and unique offerings of each region come to life. But for international tourists, the magic of these local routes remains largely unexplored.
In recent years, Japan has experienced a significant surge in tourism. In May 2024 alone, the country welcomed over 3 million visitors, marking a 60% increase compared to May 20231. However, most foreign tourists are concentrated in major urban cities. Tokyo, for example, received almost 20 million foreign tourists in 2023, accounting for 79% of international visitors to Japan2,3. But beyond the bustling metropolises lies an expansive country with diverse countryside and rich with hidden gems waiting to be discovered. (Source 1, 2, 3)
This is where Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Project comes in. With 29 hotels located beside Michi-no-Eki stations across Japan, Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels invites travelers to explore the road less traveled. Designed for the modern explorer, these hotels act as a bridge between local authenticity and the comforts of a familiar stay. Each hotel features streamlined modern design and layout, cozy Western-style beds and rain showers providing travelers with a consistent & reliable stay, while at the same time, every hotel embraces the spirit of its unique region with thoughtful local design touches, like regional Iga woven lampshades found at Fairfield by Marriott Kyoto Minamiyamashiro and culinary touches, like the market place that offers regional snacks and beverages conveniently within the lobby of the hotel for a quick meal, snack, or beverage.
Each hotel has its own Goshuin or Stamp Rally, allowing guests to collect these unique mementos while traveling from one hotel to the other, much like you would when visiting different attractions around Japan. Another highlight is the hotel’s breakfast box, which is crafted in partnership with local restaurants and showcases locally sourced meat and vegetables –the perfect fuel for your day of adventure around the area. These can be purchased at each hotel for an extra cost. With this concept, Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki hotels redefine countryside travel, combining the charm of rural Japan with the conveniences of modern hospitality.
I was thrilled to be invited as the first Road Trip Reporter for Fairfield by Marriot Michi-no-Eki Project embarking on the ‘World’s Coolest Commute’ to uncover hidden gems across Japan’s diverse prefectures. I will be self-driving for 30-days solo across the country, moving slowly like a local traveler from the most western region, Kyushu, to the most northeastern region, Hokkaido. I’m not just embarking on a journey across Japan, but also a journey within myself. As a solo traveler going off-the-beaten-track, I hope to truly immerse myself in not only the natural hidden gems, but the cultural ones as well, discovering the deeper meaning of solo travel following the path of a local traveler, moving at my own pace, and appreciating life’s small, beautiful moments along the way.
Follow along this 7-part series as I savor the journey as much as the destination, using Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels as my guide.
Kyushu: A Region of Rolling Hills and Hidden Natural Treasures
Kyushu, Japan’s third-largest island, is a road tripper’s dream. Comprising seven prefectures, Kyushu offers dramatic volcanic landscapes, tranquil onsen towns, and heartwarming hospitality. Known for its rich culinary traditions and cultural landmarks, this region invites travelers to immerse themselves in its beauty at a slower pace.
With Fairfield by Marriott as my base, I spent four nights at two locations to discover the vast Kyushu region: Fairfield by Marriott Kumamoto Aso and Fairfield by Marriott Fukuoka Ukiha.
The Aso region, located in the heart of Kumamoto Prefecture, is celebrated for its breathtaking natural landscapes and dynamic volcanic activity. At its core is Mount Aso, the largest active volcano in Japan and home to one of the world’s largest calderas, offering a dramatic backdrop for exploration. The region’s lush grasslands, such as Kusasenrigahama Plateau, provide 360° views of rolling hills and towering peaks, making it a haven for scenic drives and outdoor activities like horseback riding and hiking. Thanks to its volcanic origins, Aso is also known for its rejuvenating onsen culture, where visitors can soak in hot springs surrounded by nature. The fertile volcanic soil supports a thriving agricultural scene, particularly the production of premium Aso beef and dairy, a delicacy not to be missed. With its quaint villages, welcoming Michi-no-Eki station, and opportunities to connect with local traditions, Aso offers a perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and cultural immersion.
Ukiha, often referred to as Japan's "fruit kingdom," boasts a remarkable agricultural profile, with fruits accounting for 34% of its agricultural output—significantly higher than the national average of around 9%. This abundance is due to the region's fertile soil and favorable climate, allowing for year-round fruit cultivation. Beyond its impressive agriculture, Ukiha's charm lies in its deep connection to the land and its people, where every fruit harvested feels like a testament to the region's enduring traditions and dedication to excellence.
During autumn, Kyushu transforms into a wonderland of golden light through its rolling hills and vibrant foliage. The roads wind through mossy green forests, open vistas, and valleys painted with hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Day 1: Gateway to Aso
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Kumamoto Aso
My journey began with a short walk to the local Michi-no-Eki Aso, just 200 meters from the hotel, where I sampled regional dishes for lunch before heading to Aso’s famous volcano.
The drive to Kusasenrigahama set the tone for the trip. Kusasenrigahama is a grass-covered plateau at 1,100 meters above sea level with walking paths and sweeping views of Mount Aso, Japan’s largest active volcano. I walked around the plateau as the golden light of the afternoon illuminated the landscape.
Walking along the Kusasenrigahama Plateau and seeing the powerful volcano, I couldn’t help but feel humbled by the sheer scale of nature. The vast expanse of towering peaks and mighty volcanic gas plume reminded me of how small we are in the grand tapestry of the world, a quiet nudge to let go of distractions and fully embrace the present moment. I hope to carry this sense of presence with me throughout the rest of this journey across Japan. I ended the visit with a cup of freshly brewed coffee while taking in the last views at Kusasenri Coffee Roastery.
On the way back to Aso, I stopped at Shirakawa Spring. This pristine spring is known for the purest water in Japan and is believed to have healing properties. The taste of the water is cooling, yet refreshing. Bring a water bottle to enjoy the fresh and crisp taste!
The day ended at Tsukimawari Park, where golden hour bathed the stunning mountain vistas in a warm, golden glow. The calderas and rolling mountains of Mount Aso stretched endlessly before me, their rugged beauty softened by the fading light. It felt as though time stood still, and the world had paused just to showcase this breathtaking masterpiece of nature. Conveniently, there is a bench here, where I sat and reflected on my day. I was overcome with a profound sense of gratitude—not just for the beauty of the landscape but for the opportunity to explore rural Japan in such an intimate way.
It's only Day 1 out of 30 days but being able to experience these spectacular natural sights felt like a privilege—a rare chance to step away from the hustle of life and truly connect with a place and its soul. As the last rays of sunlight kissed the peaks, I soaked in the onsen at Tsukimawari Spa, an onsen with the spectacular backdrop.
Dinner was at Yokayoka Tei Akaushi-kan Miyaji Branch for dinner. Their famed Aso Beef Bowls lived up to the hype—tender, flavorful, and the perfect hearty meal to cap off the day.
Day 2: The Spiritual Heart of Kyushu
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Kumamoto Aso
After a delicious, yet filling breakfast box from the hotel, I visited Aso Jinja, one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrines. This sacred site, believed to have been established over 2,000 years ago, is known for its unique architectural style and its resilience, having been reconstructed after a devastating earthquake in 2016. The blazing yellow gingko leaves proudly showcased the transition of the season and the leaves falling in the wind brought a tranquil atmosphere that set the tone for the day. Just outside the shrine, I took a quick stop at Tashiroya Bakery for freshly baked fluffy obyaki snack (pastry with red bean or custard cream filling), handmade by a father & son duo – a snack that warmed both my belly and my heart.
The highlight of the day was Takachiho Gorge – a natural wonder carved by volcanic lava with dramatic basalt cliffs and emerald green waters. While it’s a popular destination, its beauty is undeniable from the unique geometric cliffs to the fairy-tale like scenes of rowboats gliding through the gorge’s waterfall. I highly recommend going in the afternoon to avoid the tour bus crowds and reserve a boat ride in advance. For lunch, I stopped at Nagashi Somen Chiho-no-ie, a renowned restaurant inside the park, celebrated as the birthplace of nagashi somen—flowing noodles served down bamboo chutes. Paired with the grilled fish and light dipping sauce, the meal was both interactive and delicious! The matcha soft serve next door at Takachiho Tourist Association Kiosk (高千穂峡 高千穂町観光協会直営売店) was the perfect sweet bite for the walk out of Takachiho Gorge.
On the way back to Fairfield by Marriott Kumamoto Aso, I stopped at Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. I found myself immersed in a serene forest, walking under towering trees to reach the sacred site. This mystical shrine is known for its moss-covered torii gates and stone stairways surrounded by lush nature, creating an atmosphere of peace and reflection. The peacefulness and journey up to the shrine felt like a form of therapy— shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) at its finest.
Dinner was a unique BBQ experience at Kosugi Resort, an outdoor haven in Aso offering glamping, horseback riding, and golf. They also offer BBQ experiences where you can grill local meat on your own private RV Deck under the stars, surrounded by the crisp mountain air. It felt magical and the perfect way to unwind after a day filled with exploration.
Day 3: A Feast for the Senses
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Kumamoto Aso
The day began at Aso Milk Factory, a local favorite for farm-to-table dairy products. After savoring their creamy milk and soft milk bread, I strolled through the charming rose garden, a peaceful start to a long day.
For lunch, I went to Kishoan (御蕎麦処 鬼笑庵), a hidden gem renowned for its handmade noodles crafted from the pristine spring below. Nestled among the vibrant fall foliage, the restaurant felt like a sanctuary. The short walk through the forest leading to it was more than a stroll—it was a personal and intimate shinrin-yoku.
As I walked towards the restaurant, the golden sunlight filtered through the fiery red and yellow leaves, casting a warm, ethereal glow on the forest floor. The gentle rustle of the falling autumn leaves and the soothing murmur of a nearby stream created a symphony of peace that resonated deep within me. I found myself pausing, overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the moment.
When I finally tasted the soba, made from the stream below, each bite felt like a tribute to the land that nurtured it. Tears welled up as I realized how healing this moment was. It was a deeply moving experience that celebrated Japan reverence for simplicity and mindfulness, where food is not just sustenance but a reflection of the land, the seasons, and the spirit of gratitude woven into everyday life.
Next, I drove to TAO-no-Oka Open-Air Theater, where stunning performances unfolded against a backdrop of vibrant autumn colors. This open-air theater is best known for the TAO Drum Show, a breathtaking spectacle that combines traditional Japanese drumming, or taiko, with dynamic choreography, intricate costumes, and the dramatic backdrop of endless mountains. The blend of powerful drumming and graceful movement felt like a celebration of Japan’s deep respect for harmony—where human expression and natural beauty come together seamlessly. Don’t forget to bring a hat or scarf to protect your face from the afternoon sun, as the outdoor setting, though stunning, offers little shade.
On the way back, I stopped at Takenokuma Cafe, a beautiful café that blends modern and traditional architecture with stunning rice paddy views. The café’s rice-based desserts and locally sourced coffee are a must-try. The café owner’s hospitality was unforgettable!
The day ended in Kurokawa Onsen, a picturesque and charming onsen town. Walking through the lantern-lit streets of Kurokawa Onsen, I felt as though I had stepped back in time. The cobblestone paths and thatched roofs exuded a rustic charm that seemed untouched by modernity.
Traditionally, guests come to ryokans to eat, stay, and enjoy the onsen, but many ryokans allow for day-use. At Ryokan Wakaba, a family-run traditional Japanese inn, I enjoyed a private bath overlooking a tranquil spring to relax from the day of driving and sightseeing.
As I soaked in the warm waters of the private onsen with the soft glow of the surrounding lanterns, I reflected on my day and my experience truly seeing Japan’s deep connection to nature—how every moment today was a celebration of this bond. From the powerful rhythms of the TAO drumming performance, which felt like an homage to the heartbeat of the land, to the calming shinrin-yoku walk that led me to a soba restaurant where the soba was crafted with spring water flowing just outside its doors. I felt deeply moved by this harmonious relationship, where nature is not merely a backdrop but a vital, living presence that shapes the rhythm of existence.
Traveling slowly through the rural parts of Japan has allowed me to immerse myself in this way of life, appreciating not just the beauty of the surroundings but also the thoughtful rituals and respect for the natural world that permeate everything here. This journey has opened my eyes to the profound beauty in these moments, inspiring me to slow down, observe, and embrace the simple yet extraordinary way Japan connects with its natural world.
Dinner was at Morikura ( もり蔵), a cozy izakaya specializing in charcoal-grilled yakitori of locally sourced ingredients. If you sit at the counter, you can watch the chef meticulously grill the yakitori!
Day 4: Ukiha’s Serene Charm
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Fukuoka Ukiha
I drove to Daikanbo Lookout for the last panoramic views of Aso’s majestic landscapes before leaving the Aso area. This popular viewpoint offers sweeping vistas of Mount Aso and the surrounding peaks, often shrouded in dramatic mist during the early morning hours.
I stopped at Nabegataki Falls Park on my way to Ukiha. This picturesque waterfall is one of the few in Japan that lets you enjoy a behind-the-falls perspective as there is a full loop walk to view the waterfrall from the front, sides, and through the waterfall, where you can see the scenery from behind the water. The fall foliage added a magical touch to the visit!
Driving towards Ukiha felt like stepping into another world. Despite the rain, the winding riverbanks lined with vibrant autumn foliage created an ethereal atmosphere. I stopped for a quick lunch at Komatsu Shokodo (こまつ食堂), a quaint family-run shokudo praised for warm hospitality and comforting homestyle dishes. Before reaching Ukiha town, I visited the Tsuzura Rice Terrace, where I found myself completely alone – the perk when traveling off-the-beaten-track in Japan. These historic rice terraces are a testament to Japan’s traditional agricultural practices and offer a tranquil setting ideal for quiet reflection.
I headed to the Michi-no-Eki in Ukiha, which was celebrating the persimmon harvest with a variety of offerings, including persimmon-flavored soft serve—a delightful treat that perfectly captured the essence of the season. As I savored the sweet and tangy flavor, it brought back vivid memories of my childhood, when I would eagerly pick and eat persimmons every year from my grandma’s tree. The taste transported me back to those moments of joy and care, and I could feel that same love and dedication reflected in the agriculture of Ukiha, where the farmers pour their hearts into cultivating the land and its seasonal treasures.
I ended the day at Ichizen, a sushi restaurant run by three generations of family, where the chef meticulously prepares sushi using fresh, local ingredients. The entire restaurant was filled with locals, and despite the language barrier, I befriended an elderly couple who graciously shared the famous Kumamoto horse sashimi and shochu with me. Before we parted, the elderly lady handed me a piece of paper with her address, telling me to visit her anytime. That small but profound gesture brought tears to my eyes, reminding me so much of my own grandma. This heartwarming experience truly exemplified the hospitality you can encounter while traveling off the beaten track in this country, leaving me with a warm, comfortable feeling I will carry in my heart forever.
Day 5: Ukiha’s Hidden Treasures
Stay: Fairfield by Marriott Fukuoka Ukiha
For breakfast, I enjoyed freshly baked and cute Ghibli shaped treats and fresh coffee at Bread Mocca before wandering around Chikugo-Yoshii area, a hidden gem neighborhood filled with Edo-era architecture and beautifully preserved historical buildings, offering a glimpse into Ukiha’s rich cultural heritage especially as it flourished in the 17th century.
Wandering through the streets of Chikugo-Yoshii felt like stepping into a time capsule. The white-walled streets and traditional ‘dozo’ buildings seemed to whisper stories of the past. The quiet charm of this neighborhood reminded me of how deeply Japan treasures its history, preserving not just architecture but the spirit of the times. There are confectionary shops, old mansions, museums, temples and many attractions within the quaint town.
I explored Iguranoyakata Mansion, an impeccably preserved old home with a serene garden. This historic residence showcases traditional Japanese architecture and offers a peaceful escape into the past.
Before heading to Fukouka, I had lunch at Soramame, a restaurant known for its obanzai dishes. Obanzai is a Kyoto-style home-cooked meal made with seasonal ingredients, and Soramame is praised for its authenticity and attention to detail.
My Kyushu leg of the 30-day journey ends here, but it’s golden light, kind-hearted people, and breathtaking landscapes of the region left an indelible mark on my soul. Kyushu was not just a destination—it was an invitation to slow down, listen, and immerse myself in a world where every encounter, every view, and every flavor told a story. Traveling slowly and venturing off the beaten track allowed me to experience small, profound moments of human connection and warmth—like the kind elderly couple who shared their stories and local delicacies with me, reminding me of the universal language of kindness. The vibrant persimmon season evoked memories of my own past, weaving together a sense of nostalgia and gratitude. The breathtaking landscapes, from rolling hills to serene waterfalls, gently reminded me to stay present, savoring each moment for what it truly was. These experiences were a testament to the beauty of stepping away from the rush of life, finding meaning in the quiet and the ordinary, and embracing life’s fleeting moments with a full heart.
Staying at Fairfield by Marriott Michi-no-Eki Hotels made exploring this region effortless, offering a reliable base to rest and recharge while staying connected to the local culture. I’m excited to explore the next region!
If you’re ready to explore Japan beyond the big cities, continue to follow along on Part 2 of my journey for inspiration on your next adventure!